Adjusting Unertl style recoil springs

[Submerge]

Figured I'd post this here since some are using this type of scope.

On a 22 target gun, how much do you preload or compress the recoil spring for firing?

I've read in an old Unertl manual that it was 50%. The specific scope in question is a Lyman Super Target Spot.

Thanks, David

[Dollar Bill]

I, as well as many others, remove the spring. You get a more repeatable return to zero pulling the scope back into battery after each shot.

[Submerge]

Thanks Bill. I heard that the springs were typically not used by 30-06 shooters because they wanted the scope to move forward so as not to get punched in the eye (short eye relief)

I have a source for these scopes and they have them with and without the spring. Instead of removing a spring, couldn't you just leave the spring ring screw loose so there will be no spring action? Taking them off requires removing the ocular, exposing the cross hairs to damage.

Also, why do they say to loosen the lock screws at the ocular to turn the cross hairs to vertical instead of just twisting the whole scope? Have never been shipmates with this type of scope.

Thanks.

[JimF]

Originally Posted by Submerge

. . . . Instead of removing a spring, couldn't you just leave the spring ring screw loose so there will be no spring action? . . . . .

Also, why do they say to loosen the lock screws at the ocular to turn the cross hairs to vertical instead of just twisting the whole scope? . . . . .

I suggest you DO set the spring ring screw so as to NOT allow the spring to come into play . . .

The reason is, those now-ancient lenses are LAMINATED using a glue that was installed back in the 40's or 50's (in some cases) and the shock of the scope returning to battery will DE-LAMINATE them! Returning it GENTLY, by hand, will greatly reduce that tendency!

Also, as stated above, if the spring returns it, it will collide with your eye/shooting glasses!

Also, because these scopes have what's called "the Pope rib" on them, they cannot be rotated to "square-up" the cross hair reticle. . . . hence the requirement to loosen screws of the reticle and slightly turn the reticle.

As a matter of interest, however, when shooting these scopes, when I reach up to pull the scope back to the rear, I simultaneously give it a gentle twist, to ensure the "keyway" of the Pope rib is always bearing on the SAME side for every shot. --Jim

[Dollar Bill]

One thing that is good about these types of scopes, not being pressurized or purged, is that they can be disassembled. It doesn't bother me at all. In fact, if you want, you can make your own reticles! Tungsten or stainless wire, a single strand from Kevlar fishing line, even dental floss has been used. A tiny drop of glue in the center and you have a "spot" reticle.

I like your tip about twisting it after returning to battery, Jim. I'm going to work that into my routine.

[ratpack]

I am new to Unertl scopes and external mounts so apologize in advance but how does one remove the recoil spring?

Does it mess up the alignment of the scope and mounts when removing the recoil springs?

[JimF]

Rather than removing the spring, might I suggest merely moving it forward, out of any contact or interaction with the recoil "operation".
You might lose it if removed, and if you ever wish to sell it, it's presence will inhance the sale.
Besides . . . It looks cool! --Jim

[ratpack]

Thanks JimF for the reply- however, I plan on using the scope in the Vintage sniper matches and the current rules state: no recoil springs.

Any help where to look to find instructions to remove the recoil springs are appreciated.

[Dollar Bill]

Here's how to remove it. From Lamar at RimFireCentral:

To remove a recoil spring is not difficult, but does require care as you will be in close proximity of the crosshairs when the occular end of the scope is removed.
Procedure is as follows: You will unscrew and remove the occular lens and the lock nut.
The crosshairs are now exposed and you do not want to touch them as they are approximately .0005 in diameter and VERY fragile.
Normally there is another lockring with a set screw that allows adjustment of centering of the crosshairs.... remove small screw from lockring and then unscrew and remove lockring.
The rear micrometer adjustment mount can now be slid off of the scope and once removed you can now slide the recoil spring assembly off the scope. You can now reinstall rear adjustment mount then lockring with setscrew followed by the occular lockring and then rear occular lens and you're done.

[ratpack]

Dollar Bill-Thank you for the info. I kind of thought it might be as described. I appreciate the info & validation.