Barreled Receiver will not pass tilt test

[la Fiere]

Just my 2 cents worth, I think the next step is to either confirm a bent barrel or take that off the table. A couple of pin gauges would not be too expensive:


https://www.mcmaster.com/pin-gauges/...z-plug-gauges/


I've found Roy Baumgardner's "Precision Shooting With The M1 Garand" a helpful reference. In his discussion of the operating rod (Part 5 which begins on P. 27) he advocates bending the oprod to fit each specific rifle. In the end, it may turn out that the peculiarities of your rifle require the middle of the oprod to be bent downward to clear the barrel band. If everything else is good (barrel indexed properly, not bent, etc.) then fitting the oprod to the rifle as it exists may be the solution.



You should also look very carefully to see if there are any other interference locations. The way the oprod comes out of the gas cylinder is a good indicator. For example, with the bolt closed there should be vertical movement of the oprod in the gas cylinder. If that's binding or tight it's an indicator of how the oprod needs to be bent (almost always a change to the oprod will affect two locations).



I don't know what others experience has been, but for me the usual interference at the barrel band / stock ferrule is with the bottom of the oprod tube rubbing against the top of the ferrule. That's pretty common and sometimes I've removed some material from the concave part of the ferrule tab just for insurance. I don't think I've never had one rub at the top like you're describing.


One last thought, are you holding the BR upside down when doing the test? I suppose that could cause the top-rubbing situation you're seeing.

[BuddyBGood]

La Fiere,your last sentence was spot on.
I had a rifle doing same not passing tilt test.I was testing legs up so I could see where the problem was.I did somethings to relieve binding to no avail.

Turned it over legs down and it worked flawlessly.

[Cranky182]

This may sound silly/ goofy, but check the op rod piston. If it is not "straight" in the op rod, it will drag. Had that issue yesterday with a buddies rifle, tried Three different op rods and gas cylinders, all worked except the one with the "offset/ uneven" op rod piston. Op rod would make a ratcheting noise, when coming out of the gas cylinder (under its own weight/ pressure), when it was tilted straight up and down (in a gas cylinder that was not on a rifle).
Most op rods will just slide straight out of a gas cylinder without any noise.
Hold the op rod piston up towards a light source and slowly turn it. If it's uneven, you will see a gap difference between the end of the op rod and the bottom of the piston.
Your op rod and or Gas Cylinder may also be slightly bent out of specs. I would check both op rod and gas cylinder in Two or Three different rifles and gas cylinders. Hope these couple ideas help in solving your head scratching issue/ problem.

[Ronwall]

Originally Posted by krdomingue

I have since acquired a better HRA example for my collection. I could replace the barrel, but I built a great shooter at the AMC course and don't need another one. It would be a good experience to replace the barrel, but then I would end up with a rifle that cost more than it is worth. Breaking back down for parts, might be the final answer.

It sounds like you're tired of fooling with it and you don't have a use for the B/R anyways. If I were in your situation I would sell the B/R with disclosure of it not passing a tilt test and be done with it. I'm sure someone out there would enjoy the challenge of solving the issue.

[sparx]

Originally Posted by Ronwall

It sounds like you're tired of fooling with it and you don't have a use for the B/R anyways. If I were in your situation I would sell the B/R with disclosure of it not passing a tilt test and be done with it. I'm sure someone out there would enjoy the challenge of solving the issue.

I might like this challenge!
(note: cmp notifications do NOT reach me jimlis22atgmail.com)

sparx