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  #1  
Old 06-14-2021, 06:42 PM
MGMKS MGMKS is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Leavenworth, KS
Posts: 194
Default USMC 40X - Handstop Question

With retirement - I am reaching way back into the gun cabinet and plan to work on this USMC CMP 40X acquired in about 2011. Goal is to get to know it, get competent, and hopefully shoot some sort of match without embarrassing myself!

Lots-o-pics here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/460642...57719421436875

My (current) question is dealing with the handstop and the front rail. I acquired the "hockey puck" part here on the Forum (thanks) and the rest of the parts recently came in from Numrich. I was ready to install - but - the front rail is sort of "stuck". I removed the screws, applied some moderate persuasion and no indication that anything would move. Some pics below.

Question is - how does one remove the front rail to put the nut under it? Is there a trick with heat from hair dryer to loosen, or some magic to get the nut slid in under the rail or something else? maybe some special tool or procedure?

Thanks for any insight

Mike McDonald
Leavenworth, KS



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  #2  
Old 06-14-2021, 09:17 PM
edlmann edlmann is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: lovely downtown Central Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGMKS View Post
My (current) question is dealing with the handstop and the front rail. I acquired the "hockey puck" part here on the Forum (thanks) and the rest of the parts recently came in from Numrich. I was ready to install - but - the front rail is sort of "stuck". I removed the screws, applied some moderate persuasion and no indication that anything would move. Some pics below.

Question is - how does one remove the front rail to put the nut under it? Is there a trick with heat from hair dryer to loosen, or some magic to get the nut slid in under the rail or something else? maybe some special tool or procedure?



I'd guess that mild heat (hair dryer rather than heat gun) would be the way.
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  #3  
Old 06-14-2021, 09:43 PM
jmm jmm is offline
 
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Doesn't the washer have 2 flats on it, making it small enough to drop through, and then you turn it 90 degrees?
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Old 06-14-2021, 10:47 PM
MGMKS MGMKS is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Leavenworth, KS
Posts: 194
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Thanks All. Pic of the washer and how it sets in the front rail. There is one set-up where the edge of the washer rests halfway down the inside of the rail.

After another series of manipulations trying to figure out the magic way for the washer to get into the rail - I note

1. There is NO evidence that the rail has ever been removed
2. The washer "almost" fits through. It is hard to resist the temptation to get a file and narrow up the washer a bit.
3. Wonder if the washers were adjusted to fit, or installed under the rail to start with (but where did this one go?)

Washer is 5/8" x 1/2" x 1/8". Anyone out there have one handy to measure to see if there is a difference?




Last edited by MGMKS; 06-14-2021 at 10:51 PM.
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  #5  
Old 06-14-2021, 11:48 PM
Odhinn Odhinn is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
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There is no magic that is going to allow you to slip that washer, as is, thru the slot. Too big is simply that, too big....

I would try tapping on the ends of the rail with a plastic faced hammer to perhaps loosen it up a bit. You could also go with a thin bladed screwdriver, assisted by the same hammer, thru the slot at as shallow an angle as possible, between the wood below and the metal at the rail ends.

In all honesty, unless someone has foolishly glued the rail into place (unlikely), removing it should really not be that much of a chore.

Good Luck,
Steve
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Last edited by Odhinn; 06-14-2021 at 11:56 PM. Reason: additional clarification of procedure
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  #6  
Old 06-15-2021, 08:23 AM
edlmann edlmann is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Odhinn View Post
In all honesty, unless someone has foolishly glued the rail into place (unlikely), removing it should really not be that much of a chore.
Someone may have stripped the stock to freshen the oil finish and reinstalled the rail before the oil was ready. Heat and gentle persuasion should do it.
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  #7  
Old 06-15-2021, 05:05 PM
MGMKS MGMKS is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Leavenworth, KS
Posts: 194
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Heat and Gentle Persuasion did the trick. Really TIGHT! Hindsight being a useful tool - perhaps a "L" shaped probe and bumping upward would have freed it. Does appear that "something" was down there, bit I do not know what. Several little ridges in the part I removed seem to be a bit worn, thinking about buying a replacement if in better shape.

Pics of the handstop assembly and the well it goes into below.





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  #8  
Old 06-15-2021, 11:37 PM
broomhandle broomhandle is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Augusta GA- X NYC guy
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Hi MGMKS,

I'm surprised no one mentioned old wood shrines a little!

I bought a WW-1 Mauser went to take it apart for a good cleaning.
I could not get a piece of .002 shim stock into about 3/4 of the mag well wood stock area.
It took about a week to slowly & carefully tap out the mag well / barreled action. Wood or softer plastic on metal surfaces. Did not ruin anything & still shoot it often. Lightly took about two or three file cuts over the inside, were I saw real drag marks. Then used candle soot to just clear the remaining tight areas.

I hope you enjoy it.
broom
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