Opinions Please.

[MacTarnahan]

I’m out of town, a guy I know and trust, knows I have have a couple Garands and I’ve voiced interest in a carbine.
I trust him but he’s not very knowledgeable about older guns. I’m not very knowledgeable about carbines.
He has this (or has access to the current owner) and offered it for sale (price not yet negotiated).

I trust him but not his knowledge. Only described as Inland mfg 1944, no serial number shown or mentioned.

I will see it in person in couple days to check it out.

Right cheek piece seems to have light Cross Cannons Ord cartouche.
Left stock looks to have an “OG” in square.

Does this look legit from just the two photos?
What would be the range of serial numbers I should expect for Inland 1944.

Thanks for any assist.

It says I’m not permitted to post attachments so I can’t post the 2 photos 😟

[MacTarnahan]

Ok, trying to link to Imgur.

https://imgur.com/a/B3cQinl

[6 Ring]

Just cool down and before you spend $ 1,000 to $1,500 for a rebuild mixed part carbine, why don't you spend $ 29.95 for, "U.S. M1 Carbine, Wartime Production" 8 th edition, by Craig Riesch? Then you will know.
I wish I was told this thirty years ago, but I thought I already knew everything. Which was not quite exactly correct.

[MacTarnahan]

Excellent suggestion. Didn’t realize one could be bought so cheaply. Seems all the best books on Garands are a couple hundred.
That being said, really don’t want to wait a couple weeks to get educated and miss this opportunity, if it is in fact, a good opportunity.
Not really interested in getting some perfect collector’s edition.
Just really want something authentic, and that will be fun to shoot.
Pretty much any actual issued military weapon will be a mix-master unless it just sat in an armory it’s entire life.
We (the entire squad) would clean by field stripping throwing all parts into a barrel of solvent and then reaching in and grabbing what ever part we needed. All our weapons (M16 and 1911) were well-used mix masters😃

Take a look at my sig, educating myself is not my forté, shooting and blowing up things is.

I do appreciate the suggestion and will most likely buy the suggested book off Amazon.

I understand no one can definitely say by looking at a couple photos if something is legit or not.
Not looking to spend 2 or 3 grand on a collectors gun. Just want a fun shooting gun.
Was just wondering if there were any glaring red flags, something like “that’s obviously modern repro because it’s four screws instead of 3” or “a weld there indicates it was repaired”.
I’m a little worried that the stock is so shiny and new and the Rack Number looks brand new.
Old stock that has been restored, ok.
Even repro stock that has correct cartouches is ok, as long as I know it’s reproduction and that’s what I pay for.
Thanks guys (and gals, if there are any)

[Jakeroub]

Nobody is going to be able to tell you much from those photos. Stock does look shiny, but it could just be the lighting. I wouldn't let varnish (or similar) on the stock stop you.

It seems like run of the mill shooter carbines are going for something like $1000. I think the risk and consequences of getting reproduction parts on a "low priced" run of the mill shooter carbine aren't too great. If it were a rare collector piece, that becomes a lot more important.

[MacTarnahan]

Originally Posted by Jakeroub

Nobody is going to be able to tell you much from those photos. Stock does look shiny, but it could just be the lighting. I wouldn't let varnish (or similar) on the stock stop you.

It seems like run of the mill shooter carbines are going for something like $1000. I think the risk and consequences of getting reproduction parts on a "low priced" run of the mill shooter carbine aren't too great. If it were a rare collector piece, that becomes a lot more important.

Understood, more interested if someone could say that it is obviously fake/bad repro or something from evidence in the photo. I’m not really looking for expensive collector piece.

You know, if someone knew that the crossed cannons were never put on the right side of stock, or the OG cartouche was never known so probably a fake. Something obvious like that.

When I collect coins I really don’t try for the uncirculated. I like the history, the idea someone 100 years ago walked into bar and plopped down the silver dollar for a whiskey.

Same with the guns, prefer a good shooter that has been used, some history behind it rather than perfect specimen that’s never been touched looking brand new.

[6 Ring]

Portland, OR. Yea, you may need this carbine more sooner than later.
To answer your questions:
First an Inland 44 barrel may not even be on an Inland. Type 4 trigger housing means it is not an Inland or it is a rebuilt part on an Inland. So serial number is very important to see what it is. It could even be an UN-Q.
If it is an Inland M1 carbine with a 44 barrel, they can start at 5,000,000 +/- a few to 6,400,000 +/- a few. A 5.000 inland can have a t-1 band or t-2 band. above 5.1 a t-2 band. A 6.3 to 6.4 can have a t-2 band or a t-3 band. So if the serial number is 6.35 or higher the t-3 band could be correct, if it is Inland.
OG is a rebuild stamp.
So not knowing the makers stamp in the sling well, any Ordnance stamp on the right is possible.
The rear sight looks to be a t-2 which would imply it maybe original. The stock is a t-3 which is good that it is not a t-4 potbelly.
The safety and mag catch are replacement parts changed out at rebuild.
If non-import, if you knew where to look for an import stamp, I would say for the left coast, it is a $ 1,400.00 to $ 1,500 carbine.

[.Steve.]

That is a “Woofer” as in a well worn metal oddly refinished stock Dawg.

Advise as noted above to learn about carbines. Find photos of decent ones, like here, for proper look and features, and most important of all de-couple trading idea.

Either you will screw your friend or he will screw you. Never co-mingle, buy, sell, or loan friends with cars, dogs, wifes, guns, boats, houses, time shares, cheap whiskey, or power tools.

That way you will keep you friend. Guns are out there by the kazillions to buy. Friends are rare. You don’t want that Carbine unless your Garand is even more dog axx.

[MacTarnahan]

Originally Posted by .Steve.

That is a “Woofer” as in a well worn metal oddly refinished stock Dawg.

Advise as noted above to learn about carbines. Find photos of decent ones, like here, for proper look and features, and most important of all de-couple trading idea.

Either you will screw your friend or he will screw you. Never co-mingle, buy, sell, or loan friends with cars, dogs, wifes, guns, boats, houses, time shares, cheap whiskey, or power tools.

That way you will keep you friend. Guns are out there by the kazillions to buy. Friends are rare. You don’t want that Carbine unless your Garand is even more dog axx.

Thanks for info and suggestion. No, not trading. Both my Garands and 1911- are from CMP. I always take full responsibilities for my actions/decisions. Friend is only hooking me up with the current owner so any decision is completely on me.
Just looking for info to make (semi) informed decision.

I appreciate the info. Any other reference books I should check out?

Originally Posted by 6 Ring

Portland, OR. Yea, you may need this carbine more sooner than later.
To answer your questions:
First an Inland 44 barrel may not even be on an Inland. Type 4 trigger housing means it is not an Inland or it is a rebuilt part on an Inland. So serial number is very important to see what it is. It could even be an UN-Q.
If it is an Inland M1 carbine with a 44 barrel, they can start at 5,000,000 +/- a few to 6,400,000 +/- a few. A 5.000 inland can have a t-1 band or t-2 band. above 5.1 a t-2 band. A 6.3 to 6.4 can have a t-2 band or a t-3 band. So if the serial number is 6.35 or higher the t-3 band could be correct, if it is Inland.
OG is a rebuild stamp.
So not knowing the makers stamp in the sling well, any Ordnance stamp on the right is possible.
The rear sight looks to be a t-2 which would imply it maybe original. The stock is a t-3 which is good that it is not a t-4 potbelly.
The safety and mag catch are replacement parts changed out at rebuild.
If non-import, if you knew where to look for an import stamp, I would say for the left coast, it is a $ 1,400.00 to $ 1,500 carbine.

Thanks! Saw an earlier post where someone someone said you (6 Ring) was straight up, honest and knew your stuff, so appreciate you taking the time to respond. Thanks

[painter777]

Can see a Crossed Cannons stamp on the right, not where you normally see Inland CC stamps. Hopefully it's a real stamping.
Might be a WRA or Underwood stock, look inside left sling well for a W or M-U.

As told, get serial number and maker. Other makers used Inland barrels and barrels were commonly swapped out. See that the bore and chamber isn't shot out.
Look for any damage to the bolts locking lugs on the receiver. Especially the left one.
Make sure it's stamped M1 on front receiver ring.

Request many more pictures you can share for more input.

Good Luck, Charlie-P777

I've got pictures of the receivers left locking shoulder in my replies #45 and #46 in the link below. My pictures will show you what you want to see on a good receiver.
Get a few pictures of this area so you can compare. Missing or chipped away metal here can be caused by a broken bolt lug. Easy to inspect.... impossible to fix.

Link: https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=63360&page=5

HTH, Charlie-Painter777